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Perched in the northern flank of Ortigara - Cima Dodici, the Austro-Hungarian war cemetery of Val Maora lies in a truly "inaccessible" place, and a climb of 1500 m is needed to reach it from the Valsugana.
It had remained nearly forgotten for 30 years, until on August 10, 2025 a mass was celebrated there, with the presence of a big delegation coming from Austria. Another Austrian delegation had come the previous Sunday to celebrate a mass in the little church of San Osvaldo, which on the opposite side of the valley was the place of other battles.
In that day of August, while most of the people had used helicopter transportation, I had chosen to reach the Ortigara by bicycle from the southern side, full of old military roads, and then to descend by foot from the watershed.
After the mass I returned up to my bicycle and I pointed eastwards in direction Croatia. As usual, I did not forget to pay a visit to a very special plaque on the vicinity of Monte Forno (on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GMinDCdw6LErdT177 ). In 1976, sixty years after the war, a group of Italians met in Asiago a "former enemy" from Graz, and they recalled a cease-fire caused by a big snowfall. As the plaque explains, they exchanged goods and collected firewood, for which purpose the Italians also managed to steal a saw to their enemies...
This is the GPS track of that memorable day in Val Maora:
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=233232529
This time I saw the cemetery in a new mood, a gloomy evening which only saw a sudden "Alpenglühen" on the southern Dolomites. In that moment I was walking among the crosses, and I did not have the time to regain the "panoramic point", since the whole thing lasted a couple of minutes.
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